Counterfeit graded slabs are no longer a niche problem. Fake PSA, BGS, and CGC cases are pouring in from overseas manufacturers who have gotten frighteningly good at replicating holographic labels, ultrasonic welds, and QR codes that link to real certification pages.
Casual buyers can't tell the difference at a glance. Here's how to protect yourself.
PSA: The Most Counterfeited Slab in the Hobby
PSA slabs are the most faked because they command the highest premiums. A PSA 10 label can add hundreds or thousands to a card's value. That markup is what counterfeiters are chasing.
UV light test. This is the single most reliable quick check. Under a UV blacklight, authentic PSA labels reveal hidden "PSA" text in two fixed positions that glow evenly. On the back of the label, six PSA logos should illuminate around the visible printed logo. If the front of the label glows bright white under UV, it's fake. Real labels don't do that.
Label transparency test. Hold the slab up to a strong light and look through the label from back to front. On a real PSA slab, you can faintly make out the text on the opposite side. Counterfeiters sometimes glue a fake label over a real one. The extra layer makes it too opaque to see through.
Raised logo check. On authentic PSA holders, "PSA" is molded into the plastic. On older slabs it's on the front lower right. On current lighthouse-era slabs it's on the back. Run your finger over it. It should feel raised. Fakes print it flat or skip it entirely.
Weld inspection. PSA cases are sealed with ultrasonic bonding that makes the two halves rigid. Check the seam around the perimeter. Hazy "frosting" along the edges, gaps in the seal, or any flex when you press the halves together means the case has been tampered with. Legitimate PSA slabs do not flex or pop.
Lighthouse hologram. Current PSA slabs feature a proprietary lighthouse logo that creates an "on/off" effect when tilted against light. Counterfeit versions tend to look washed out or static when tilted. Compare it side-by-side with a known-authentic slab if you can.
BGS: Patent Numbers and Inner Sleeves
Beckett slabs get faked less often, but the counterfeits that exist can fool people who aren't looking for the right details.
Patent number. On the bottom edge of a genuine BGS case front, you should see "PAT. 6,295,750 B1" in small raised letters. The period after "PAT" and the exact spacing matter. Known fakes have been caught with the period missing or the numbers off. Tiny detail. Counterfeiters consistently get it wrong.
"BECKETT" deboss. A real BGS slab has "BECKETT" debossed at the top of the front face. Feel it with your thumb. It should be pressed into the plastic, not printed on top.
Inner sleeve. Every authentic BGS slab holds the card inside a clear fitted inner sleeve. If the card is loose or shifting more than a millimeter inside the holder, that's a red flag. BGS always uses that inner sleeve. No exceptions.
Subgrade labels. BGS is known for its subgrades (centering, corners, edges, surface). On authentic labels, these are printed with consistent spacing, alignment, and font weight. Fakes often have bolder or thinner text, or the subgrade numbers don't line up cleanly with their category names.
CGC: Holograms, QR Codes, and Label Detail
CGC slabs have become more common targets as CGC's card grading business has surged.
Holographic strip. Authentic CGC labels have a holographic foil strip on the front with "CGC" lettering and micro-text, plus a second hologram on the back. Tilt under direct light. Real holograms shift cleanly. Fakes look blurred or static.
Font precision. CGC uses proprietary fonts. Counterfeiters rarely nail this. Compare letter spacing, stroke weight, and grade number alignment against a known authentic slab. Text should be perfectly centered with no drift.
Card-to-label match. Verify the card inside matches the label description. Edition markings, set symbols, and card numbers should line up. A label that says "1st Edition" on a card with no 1st Edition stamp is an obvious red flag.
Always Verify the Cert Number
Every grading company maintains an online database. Use it. Every single time.
PSA: psacard.com/cert. BGS: beckett.com/grading/card-lookup. CGC: cgcgrading.com/verify.
But cert verification alone does not confirm authenticity. Counterfeiters reuse legitimate cert numbers from real slabs. The QR code or manual lookup returns a valid result. PSA themselves warn about this on their verification page. You have to pair the cert lookup with physical inspection.
Check that the card description, grade, and year in the database match the label. Then confirm the card inside matches the database entry. Anything off by even one detail, walk away.
Red Flags When Buying
Price is the first signal. A PSA 10 that normally sells for $500 listed at $200? You already know. Counterfeiters undercut market price to move volume fast.
Other red flags: blurry label photos, sellers who won't share the cert number before purchase, bulk lots of high-grade slabs from new accounts with no history, and listings using stock photos instead of actual photos of the specific slab.
What to Do If You Got a Fake
On eBay, open a case under "item not as described." Their authenticity guarantee covers graded cards over $250, but lower-priced items still fall under buyer protection. Document everything with photos and video before returning.
For other platforms, contact the seller and escalate. File a report with the grading company. PSA, BGS, and CGC all track counterfeit cert numbers in their databases.
Bought in person? Your options are limited. This is why you do the checks before handing over cash. A $15 UV flashlight and 60 seconds of inspection can save you thousands.